Zurich: Largest But Least Touristic Swiss City

I heard the name of Zurich as one of the Swiss cities before I visited there.  So, I imagined that there would be lots of sights and attractions.  However, Zurich was a leading finance center, but not a tourism center.  In addition, Zurich was listed as the 6th most expensive city in the world, according to the 2009 Mercer and Economist Intelligence Unit surveys.  I felt that the cost of living in Zurich was almost the same as the one in Japan, although another Japanese girl told me that Switzerland was more expensive than Japan.  I agreed with accommodation fees, but nothing else.  At that time, she came from Nara while I lived in Tokyo, which was ranked the world's most expensive city.  Despite the same nationality, we had a different impression on the cost of living in Zurich.  However, it was never cheap to travel Zurich. 

I highly recommend HAUS HILTL, the oldest vegetarian restaurant in Europe.  This restaurant is my favorite in Zurich.  I visited HILTL twice during my stay, although I only tried its buffet.  The buffet food was charged by its weight.  I paid 22.95 CHF for the first time and 29.80 CHF for the second time.  Both prices included soft drinks, although drinks were not charged by its weight.  Considering dinner at other Zurich restaurants, I think it was not expensive.  The buffet table presented a variety of healthy and tasty food, including spicy Indian cuisine.  It was refreshing to have fresh vegetables after I had rich and heavy Swiss food.

I also loved Swiss chocolate.  I encountered many opportunities to buy excellent chocolates and pastries.  I bought Zurich-Started Lindt chocolate at a local supermarket, chocolate and pastries created by Sprungli Confiserie inside the Zurich Central Station (Zurich HB), and expensive Teuscher chocolate truffles at the famous shopping street Bahnhofstrasse.  They were all good.     

I am sure that you would have many chances to taste the Swiss food.  Many guidebooks list Zeughauskeller due to its traditional Swish dishes and unique dining environment.  The restaurant staff seemingly got used to having a solo international tourist and offered the menu in many different languages.  The service was fast but busy.  Many waiters and waitresses pushed their kitchen carts to carry food, which were interesting but sometimes noisy.  My waitress was friendly and became friendlier when I gave her a tip.  Zeughauskeller was rather a beer hall than a restaurant.  However, the dinner price was not the price that I would pay at a beer hall.  I enjoyed the experience at this restaurant, but one time should be enough for me.

Go to Top

Zurich is rather commercial than touristic.  Most of the major sights are located on either side of the River Limmat.  Therefore, I think the best activities in Zurich are:

• Cruising the Lake Zurich
• Exploring sights in Zurich on foot

I enjoyed the lake cruise, which was very relaxing.  It was easy to find a departure port, because I saw a huge crowd of people.  A waiting line was not well organized.  I was surprised that some European-looking people were cutting in a line when boarding started.  I thought that Europeans were well mannered.  (Well, they might not be Europeans.  Tourists could be from any part of the world.)  Due to many people on board, it was also difficult to find a seat for a solo traveler.  I happened to share a table with a Japanese woman during the trip.  We ended up with having dinner together after the cruise.   

My walking tour, without a guide, started from the Zurich Central Station (Zurich Hauptbahnhof, or Zurich HB).  I visited the sights shown below. 

Among many sights in Zurich, I recommend going inside the following churches:

• Fraumunster Church - You must see stained glass windows created by Marc Chagall.  I was not tired of just watching his beautiful and peaceful work.  A photo is prohibited inside this church, but you can buy a postcard there.  Free admission!
• Grossmunster Church - It is free to enter this church, although its main attraction, climbing the North Tower, cost 2 CHF.  You would have to walk up 200 or less steps.  However, your effort would definitely be rewarded by marvelous views of the city. 

I have been to other churches, but I think it is OK to just see their outside looks

Go to Top

Accommodations in Zurich are generally very expensive.  I was shocked to learn that I barely found a private room at less than 100 CHF per night, especially in the central Zurich.  In cities where I had stayed, including Tokyo, I could find several hotels whose room charge was less than 100 US dollars per night.  I read many reviewers complained about the budget hotels in Zurich, which were either old, dirty, noisy, or not cheap.  However, I got a good secret deal to stay in a modern, clean, quiet and normally expensive hotel at less than 100 US dollars per night.  

I stayed for 3 nights in Holiday Inn Zurich, which was located between the city center and airport.  It only takes about 15 minutes to reach the central station (Zurich HB) by the city tram.  You can buy a tram ticket and pass at the front desk.  Staff there was very friendly and helpful.  One of the staff searched a coin laundry outside of the hotel for me.  She kindly explained the price and direction of the laundry.  In addition, I was offered to have my wine chilled in a wine cellar at a hotel restaurant when I found the room did not have a refrigerator.  Lastly, I got free Internet access for 24/7 as long as two computers were not occupied.  I enjoyed staying at this hotel, but I encountered two minor facilities' issues: 1) malfunction of an automatic door at the hotel entrance that kept me from entering and exiting a hotel and 2) flooding in the shower.  Anyway, the staff came immediately and solved those problems, which became a funny memory of my trip. 

Despite the minor issues, I highly recommend Holiday Inn if you plan to stay in Zurich for more than one night.  I stayed at a hotel near the Zurich Central Station for one last night.  The hotel's location was definitely convenient.  It was nice to spend extra hours at major sights of Zurich in the morning and evening.  However, the hotel room was much smaller but more expensive than the room at Holiday Inn.  The spacious room with friendly staff at Holiday Inn definitely spoiled me.

Go to Top

From airport to the central city or vice versa:

Take a SBB train!  It is the fastest and the cheapest option.  The trip takes 10-15 minutes.

Within Zurich:

Walking is the best way to explore Zurich.  It is not far to walk from the Zurich Central Station (Zurich Hauptbahnhof, or Zurich HB) along the Limmat River to Lake Zurich.  Most of Zurich's sights are located nearby on either side of the river.   

Despite heavily relying on my feet, I was impressed with very punctual and organized public transportation in Zurich.  However, it was confusing for the first-time traveler for several reasons: 1) seemingly many different companies running the transportation, 2) an unfamiliar zone system, 3) many ticket choices, and 4) the class system on train.

1) Seemingly many different companies running the transportation:

I saw many acronyms at the train station: SBB, CFF, FFS, and ZVV.  My guidebook showed only SBB and ZVV.  I also saw different shapes and colors of automatic ticket machines.  In Japan, each transportation company has one look of the ticket machine.  However, many companies do not run the public transportation in Zurich.  I later learned that SBB stood for the Swiss Federal Railways in German, CFF did in French, and FFS did in Italian.  SBB and SBB CFF FFS mean the same company, operating domestic and international trains.  ZVV is a regional company which runs the public transport network including trams, buses, trains, and boats on the lake and river.  I also learned that all different looks of the ticket machines usually owned by ZVV could present a valid ticket as long as your machine recognized the destination name that you entered.  Otherwise, just go to a ticket counter.  I was not charged extra for buying a ticket from the counter. 

2) An unfamiliar zone system:

I was familiar with the rate by destination or distance.  However, it was difficult for me to grasp the zone concept for the first time.  A purchased ticket showed zones where I could go with the ticket, but I did not know what zone I was at, what zone I was heading to, and what sights were in those zones.  I learned that most of major sights in Zurich were in Zone 10.   The Zurich Oerlikon train station where I used from the hotel was also in Zone 10.  I should have obtained the zone map, before or during the trip. 

3) Many ticket choices:

One ZVV ticket covers all the transportation means, such as train, tram, bus, boat, funicular, and cable car within the valid zones.  However, a ticket has a time limit.  A single ticket has a 1-2 hour validity, depending on a number of zones, while a round-trip ticket has a 24-hour validity.  A day pass costs the same as two single tickets, even though the pass allows for a 24-hour unlimited ride within a valid zone.  There is a Zurich Card whose benefits include free travel to Zurich's major attractions even from the airport, such as museums, Lake Zurich cruise, Uetliberg and so on.  You have many other ticket choices.  It was hard for me to choose a cost-effective ticket that suited for my time schedule and interests in Zurich, although a day pass generally best met my travel needs. 

4) The class system on train:

I blinked at the question that a lady at the ticket counter asked me:  "Do you want a first class ticket or the second class one?"  Her question recalled me a hot and miserable experience of the second class train trip in Thailand.  However, it was not the same case!  I experienced both class seats on Swiss trains.  The prices were different, (of course).  Both are clean and comfortable with the similar window views.  They reach the destination at the same time.  Within a short distance ride, like one hour ride, the second class coach was efficient enough for me.  I have never encountered a rush hour on the second class coach.  However, the ticket can be upgraded to the first class, if available. 

The public transportation in Zurich was excellent once I learned its system.  Ticket options in the Zurich area can be bewildering.  It is good to spend some time on studying the SBB , ZVV , and other Internet travel sites before your trip.  Otherwise, wait in a line for a ticket seller or ask a local for help. 

Go to Top